olympus om de m1 mark ii

Olympus OM-D E-M1 Mark II 12-200 mm Kit Preise ab 1.499,00 € Bilder Beschreibungen Sparen Sie mit guenstiger.de! Olympus OM-D E-M1 Mark III: Praxis-Test der Tempo-DSLM Vorteile Schneller Autofokus Serienaufnahme bis 60 B/s, mit AF-C bis 18 B/s Live-ND-Filter Effektiver Bildstabilisator C4K-Video inkl. OM-D E-M1 IIとおそらく同じセンサー。 処理エンジンやソフト面で進化していますが、センサー自体 発売されたのは2016年 。 さすがに数年前のセンサーで戦えるほど世間は甘くないわけで。 SONYは言わずもがな、AFが遅い遅いと言われていたFUJIFILMもどんどん性能あがってきてますし、Nikonは動物にまで瞳AFが動作するような時代。 うーん、コスト的なマイクロフォーサーズの限界なのかなぁ。 AFに癖がある たまに、ではありますが 謎な瞬間にピントが抜ける…というかAFが合ってないと判断 されてしまいます。 AF-C+TR（AF追従モード）でレリーズボタン半押しで顔と瞳を認識しピントが合います。 （AFターゲット緑色） The Olympus E-M1 Mark II retails for $2799.00AUD, but can be found through various retailers for a few hundred less. A few important specs: Micro Four Thirds 20.4 mp Live MOS sensor Weather-sealed body 18 fps AF/AE (with C-AF) 60 fps AF/AE (with S-AF) 121-point All-cross-type On-chip Phase Detection AF 4K (4096 x 2160) Video at 24P and 237 Mbps Olympus OM-D E-M1 Mark II • Olympus M.Zuiko Digital ED 14-42mm f/3.5-5.6 EZ • ISO 200 hosted photo BOKEH BOKEH BOKEH - The Good and the Ugly - II by josrood Olympus OM-D E-M1 Mark II • Olympus M.Zuiko Digital ED 14-42mm f/3.5-5.6 EZ • ISO 320 hosted photo Post Your Food Photography by josrood materi pkn kelas 12 semester 1 pdf. The Olympus OM-D E-M1 Mark III $1, body only looks and feels a lot like 2016's E-M1 Mark II, but offers improvements all around, including an updated image processor that adds some new features, including a handheld mode for high-resolution image capture, first seen in the pricier E-M1X. The E-M1 Mark III is a more sensible camera for photographers invested in the Micro Four Thirds system, though, thanks to a more reasonable asking price and a smaller Tried-and-True FormOlympus didn't make a lot of changes to the E-M1's body this go-round. Its general shape and size are unchanged. It's smaller than most SLRs, but still gives you a big, deep handgrip and balances well with available lenses, even the larger primes and telephoto glass that's been added to the system in recent years. It measures by by inches HWD and weighs pounds without a lens attached. It's sold in a black finish exclusively, with pro-grade magnesium alloy construction and extensive dust and splash protection. The body doesn't include a pop-up flash, but that's par for the course when shopping this far above has gone the extra step and received a certification, IPX1, indicating that you'll be safe to use it in wet weather. You'll need to use a lens with weather protection to get there, but Olympus offers many. Similar Products 300mm F4 + TC, f/ 1/800-second, ISO 250 You can buy the camera as a body only, or in a kit with the 12-40mm zoom $2,499 or the 12-100mm F4 $2,899, both representing savings versus buying them press time, Olympus is also selling a bundle with the camera and three lenses, the 7-14mm 40-150mm and 300mm F4, for $5,800. The total discount versus buying them separately equals the cost of the camera itself—Olympus is billing it as a way to get it for basically nothing—but does require you to make a big investment in lenses up front. The promotion expires at the end of at Your FingersThe E-M1 series is aimed at photographers who know their way around a camera. Olympus packs the body to the gills with controls, including dual dials, buttons to set drive mode and focus, and, new with this model, a dedicated joystick that adjusts the autofocus area. 300mm F4 + TC, f/ 1/800-second, ISO 320 Two programmable function buttons sit between the handgrip and lens mount; one is concave and the other convex so you'll have a little bit easier time telling them On/Off switch is up top, to the left of the hot shoe, and is flanked by buttons to set the drive mode and change autofocus and metering settings. The Mode dial sits just to the right of the raised area that houses the viewfinder. It locks and unlocks using a central post. The rear control dial sits right next door, with the forward one positioned at an angle atop the handgrip, the shutter release at its center. Two buttons—EV adjustment and Record/Movie—are placed between the two controls start to the left of the eyecup, above the LCD, where you find the Menu and eye sensor control buttons. To the right you find the AEL/AFL button and the Fn Lever that toggles between two control schemes surrounding it. The Fn Lever is very much an Olympus thing—you won't find it in cameras from other brands. You can set it to change the functions of the front and rear dials mode1, swap between two sets of autofocus settings mode2, or switch between still and video capture mode3. I opted for the mode2 setting, with one position used for continuous focus with subject tracking and the second to lock focus in once it's been acquired AF-S.The ISO button is at the top right corner, all by its lonesome, separated from other controls by the thumb rest. The eight-way focus control is just to its left. It sits nearly flush, more of a nub than a joystick, and is a much more efficient, comfortable way to move the focus point than the four-way directional pad that sits below it. 300mm F4 + TC, f/ 1/1,000-second, ISO 400 The d-pad serves the same functions, a comfort for E-M1 Mark II owners who may still reach to it out of muscle memory. The Delete, Info, and Play buttons sit below it, and round out the camera's physical controls. Super Control Panel They're supplemented by a touch LCD. You can tap on-screen icons to adjust select settings, though the full text menu isn't navigable by touch. Still, there's plenty there, including the Super Control Panel, an on-screen interface with a number of options. It's navigable by touch, and thoughtfully laid out, but you're not able to customize it. This is in contrast to similar pop-up menus from rivals Fujifilm and Sony, both of which allow you to select what options are and Viewfinder The LCD is a 3-inch panel and is mounted on a hinge. It can face flat against the rear, either exposed or hidden away, and swings out to the side so you can view it from the front, or when holding the camera above your head or down low to the ground. The display is quite sharp, 1,040k dots, and its brightness can be pumped high for use on sunny viewfinder is pretty big, with a magnification rating, but it isn't as sharp as some of its competition million dots. The Fujifilm X-T4 has a viewfinder that only appears a hair larger to the eye but is notably crisper million dots. We'd have preferred Olympus to step it up and use the best quality viewfinder for its flagship camera. 300mm F4 + TC, f/ 1/800-second, ISO 800 Connectivity and PowerThe E-M1 Mark III includes Bluetooth and Wi-Fi connectivity. It pairs with a smartphone app, Olympus OI Share, available as a free download for Android and iOS. The app works as a remote control for the camera, complete with a live feed from the lens, and lets you transfer images to your phone for social sharing. It also includes a store interface, and will push notifications of sales and promotions to your phone's home screen—it's worth taking the time to disable push notifications if you don't want the spam. 300mm F4 + TC, f/ 1/800-second, ISO 320 The app can use some updates, though. For one, it's only able to pair a single camera at a time—if you're an enthusiast with more than one Olympus model, switching between them is a pain. It's able to transfer Raw files, but iOS doesn't support the format, so you can't edit them in your normal apps, or even Olympus' own editor, OI Mobile loads the Raw files easily, and is available as a mobile editing option for Adobe Creative Cloud subscribers. I wasn't able to offload images directly from the camera to my iPad Pro via USB, but a card reader managed the job just fine. 300mm F4 + TC, f/ 1/800-second, ISO 640 In addition to USB-C, you get a PC sync socket to connect to external lights, micro HDMI, and jacks for an external mic and headphones. There are two memory card slots, both with support for SDXC media and UHS-II transfer battery is rated for about 420 shots per charge, notably fewer than competing models like the Sony a6600 720 shots and Fujifilm X-T4 600 shots. You can top off via USB-C, so it's a good idea to carry a power bank for extended outings, or to pick up a spare. The battery is the same as the one used by the E-M1 Mark II and E-M1X, though, so if you're a longtime Olympus user you may already have spares on hand. 12-45mm F4, 23mm, f/4, 1/2,000-second, ISO 200 Autofocus and Continuous CaptureThe E-M1 Mark III uses the same image sensor as its predecessor, a 20MP Micro Four Thirds chip with on-sensor focus. It supports both contrast and phase detection, and spreads the latter across 121 distinct points. Coverage isn't as extensive as some others—the autofocus doesn't quite reach the edge of the sensor—but it's wider than you'll get from most How We Test Digital CamerasDespite having the same basic bones, there are some upgrades over the Mark II. The E-M1 Mark III adds a Starry Sky autofocus mode so astrophotographers can more easily lock focus on celestial subjects, and Olympus has promised that the general performance and subject tracking capabilities are better. 300mm F4 + TC, f/ 1/1,000-second, ISO 1000 Among them are face and eye detection, which work quickly and reliably. Subject tracking isn't as amazing—the camera is quick enough to identify a subject, but tends to drift as your subject moves through the photographing a goose at a local park, for example, the focus system consistently lost track of its head and locked onto its neck instead. Both neck and head feathers are black, but competitors like the Sony a6600 and Fujifilm X-T4 are smart enough to recognize the eyes and bill too, and don't show similar drift. 300mm F4 + TC, f/ 1/800-second, ISO 5000 The camera can fire off shots at up to 60fps with the electronic shutter and 15fps using the mechanical one, but it doesn't focus between every shot at those speeds. Still, at 18fps with the e-shutter and 10fps with the mechanical one, the E-M1 Mark III offers plenty of subjects that aren't moving toward or away from the lens—think birds at a feeder or a head-on image of a goalie trying to block a shot—the Pro Capture mode comes in handy so you can find the absolute perfect moment of action. It allows you to buffer a bit of action without actually saving it by half-pressing the shutter—as soon as you see the moment you want to capture, press it down all the way and the camera will save images from a little bit before the moment and a little bit after. You can customize how many it will take at a time via the menu, so you won't fill up your memory card too quickly. 300mm F4 + TC, f/ 1/1,250-second, ISO 200 Our lab tests show the E-M1 Mark III doesn't respond quite as swiftly to changes in focus as its competition, but still nets shots that are mostly in focus, both at 10fps and 18fps. In the field, I didn't miss any shots because of lack of response from the camera; loss of the subject when tracking was more of an 10fps I was able to get just shy of 55 Raw+JPG images in a burst before the camera started to slow; but there was a long delay, about 30 seconds, for all images to clear to memory. You can go for longer durations by changing the file format. I got 115 shots in Raw and about 135 when using the highest-quality JPG setting. All tests were performed with a 300MBps Sony Tough UHS-II memory card. 300mm F4 + TC, f/ 1/800-second, ISO 800 Image SensorThe E-M1 Mark III uses the same 20MP Micro Four Thirds image sensor as its predecessor, and other recent models from Olympus like the E-M5 Mark III and E-M1X. It doesn't offer quite the same resolution, or surface area, as competing cameras with APS-C format chips, like the Fujifilm X-T4 and Sony hasn't been a huge advance in resolution in Micro Four Thirds sensor technology in recent years. It's telling that Olympus is using a 20MP imager here. To make up for the lack of pixels, the camera includes a very strong image stabilization system and support for multi-exposure capture. 12-45mm F4, 24mm, f/ 1/500-second, ISO 200 The multi-shot mode shifts the image sensor slightly and takes shots in rapid succession, leveraging the fully electronic shutter to get there. It can manage 50MP output when working handheld, and if you don't mind bringing a tripod along, you can set it to shoot for 80MP handheld option is an upgrade from the Mark II, and something that you don't get with the E-M5 series and other lesser-specced models. You also get Live ND with this model for long exposure daylight photography without the need for a lens filter, and Live Bulb and Composite for making long exposure scenes at night. 300mm F4 + TC, f/ 1/400-second, ISO 200 Keep in mind that these multi-shot modes are best utilized for static subjects. Olympus has added some intelligence to the compositing, so blowing leaves and branches won't look otherworldly, but you shouldn't reach to the feature for portraits and action you look away from the computational features, you see where the E-M1 Mark III struggles versus competing systems. If you're a JPG shooter, you won't get quite the same level of quality at higher ISO settings, used in dim light and for very short shutter speeds—as you get from an APS-C chip, yet alone a full-frame one. 300mm F4 + TC, f/ 1/800-second, ISO 500 Images show excellent detail through ISO 800, and while they lose a little bit of clarity through ISO 3200, results are still quite good. There's some blur at ISO 6400, though, and it's worse at the highest available options, ISO 12800 and Fujifilm X-T3, X-T4, and others that use its 26MP sensor do a better job, delivering clearer results through ISO 12800, and offering better quality ISO 25600 capture and ISO 51200 if you want it. 12-45mm F4, 25mm, f/4, 1/400-second, ISO 200 Many E-M1 buyers will use Raw format. The files show a little more grain and a little more detail. They look very good through ISO 6400, and are a fine choice for a grainy analog look at ISO 12800. Beyond that, though, output is overwhelmed by sensor stabilization is exceptional, though, so you're often able to use a lower ISO setting than you would with another camera. There are exceptions—stabilization isn't useful for photographing moving subjects, and for some disciplines you'll need to use a short shutter speed to freeze motion. If you're photographing sports in dimly it gyms, you'll get cleaner results from a full-frame camera like the Sony a7 III. 12-45mm F4, 45mm, f/4, 1/1,000-second, ISO 200 You won't get as much room to open shadows or curb highlights, though. The E-M1's sensor is limited to 12-bit Raw output, giving you a lot more flexibility than you can expect from an 8-bit JPG, but not as much as 14-bit Raw formats offered by the Fujifilm X-T4, Sony a6600, and other of field control is also worth talking about. Because shorter focal lengths are used to net wider angles—a 12mm lens on the E-M1 matches the view of an 16mm one on an APS-C camera, 24mm on full-frame—you typically don't get as much background blur in photos. 300mm F4 + TC, f/ 1/800-second, ISO 500 To make up for it, Olympus sells a trio of big for the system lenses with f/ apertures. They're spendy, at $1,200 each, and net about as much depth of field as an f/ on an APS-C system or f/ full-frame lens. If you're after the shallow depth of field look, you are almost certainly better off with a system built around a larger the other hand, Micro Four Thirds owners have access to svelte f/ prime lenses and an array of good, lightweight zooms that include weather protection and fixed aperture designs. The 12-100mm F4 and 12-45mm F4 are both options that are unmatched by other systems, and there's a 12-40mm if you want a brighter standard zoom. 300mm F4 + TC, f/ 1/800-second, ISO 1000 4K VideoThe E-M1 Mark III doesn't offer any palpable video updates. Like its predecessor, it records 4K at up to 30fps with excellent stabilization and the option to use a flat color profile if you want to color grade your own footage. At 1080p, you can push the frame rate as high as 60fps for standard capture and 120fps for silent HDMI output is available, so you can record to an external device like an Atomos Ninja V to net a bit better compression from a 422 8-bit signal. You should do your best to get exposure right in camera, though, as clips don't retain as much information as you get from cameras that record at 10-bit still something to be said about just how effective the E-M1 Mark III's stabilization system is for video, though. If handheld recording is your thing, be happy to know that you can get great results with the E-M1. I would typically bring a tripod for any sort of telephoto work, but was able to get reasonably steady footage along with a 300mm lens and Goods As Micro Four Thirds Gets 12-45mm F4, 25mm, f/16, 1/400-second, ISO 200 With the E-M1 Mark III, Olympus has made its best Micro Four Thirds camera, but it's telling that upgrades from the aging Mark II are not earth shattering. The two cameras use the same image sensor and basic body design, and offer very similar performance in most means owners of the Mark II will have to find other reasons to upgrade. There is one notable ergonomic upgrade, the addition of a dedicated focus control, but I do wish Olympus had also put a crisper viewfinder in the camera; the magnification is higher, but there's no corresponding increase in resolution. 300mm F4 + TC, f/ 1/800-second, ISO 2500 There are also other systems to consider, but if you already have a big investment in Micro Four Thirds lenses you're likely to stay close to home. It's really a toss-up as to whether you like the Olympus way of doing things, or if you prefer Panasonic's cameras, like the similarly capable Lumix you're not yet schlepping a lot of lenses around, or are contemplating a new system, Micro Four Thirds has a little less appeal than a few years ago. Larger, full-frame sensors are now much more affordable, with models like the Sony a7 III offering a lot of camera for a bit more money. They're something to think about if you're considering buying f/ Micro Four Thirds lenses—an f/ lens on a full-frame sensor will net a similar look for a lot less money. For customers who don't quite want full-frame, there are compelling APS-C options too. Fujifilm's system has a number of compact, weather-sealed prime lenses at attractive prices, and while we've not completed our review of its latest model, the X-T4, early indications show that it's absolutely the camera to beat in its class. Olympus OM-D E-M1 Mark III Pros Strong in-body stabilization Vast Micro Four Thirds lens system Raw capture at 15fps with mechanical shutter Electronic shutter at up to 60fps IP1X weather protection Swing-out touch LCD 4K video View More Cons Subject tracking autofocus not as effective as competitors Not the latest and greatest EVF Menu system could use a refresh The Bottom Line The Olympus OM-D E-M1 Mark III has a smaller sensor than competitors, but makes up for it with strong stabilization, smart built-in features for handheld exposure, and weather protection. Like What You're Reading? Sign up for Lab Report to get the latest reviews and top product advice delivered right to your inbox. This newsletter may contain advertising, deals, or affiliate links. Subscribing to a newsletter indicates your consent to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. You may unsubscribe from the newsletters at any time. Olympus OM-D E-M1 Mark IIOlympus OM-D E-M1 Mark IIPor que Olympus OM-D E-M1 Mark II é melhor que a média?Pontos focais? câmera principal? de vídeo câmera principal?2160 x contínuos em alta resolução? de imagem? máxima do obturador?1/8000svs1/3183sProfundidade de cor? de tela?1037k dotsCanon EOS 5D Mark IV + Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USMSony a6600 + Sony E 18-135mm OSSSony Alpha a6500 + Sony Vario-Tessar E 16-70mm f/4 ZA OSS T*Sony A6400 + Sony E 18-135mm f/ OSSCanon EOS Rebel SL2 + Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/ IS STMNikon D600 + AF-S NIKKOR 24-85mm VRFujifilm X-T30 + Fujifilm XF 18-55mm f/ R LM OISCanon EOS 77D + Canon EF-S 18-135mm f/ IS USMNikon D7100 + 18-105mm f/ ED VR DXNikon Z50 + Nikon Nikkor Z DX 16-50mm f/ VRAvaliações de usuáriosClassificação geralOlympus OM-D E-M1 Mark II1 Avaliações de usuáriosOlympus OM-D E-M1 Mark Avaliações de usuáriosRecursoDesignO tipo de visor que a câmera dispositivo tem proteção adicional para evitar falhas causadas por poeira, pingos de chuva e respingos de maior resolução de tela permite proporciona imagens mais nítidas, aprimorando o modo como você enxerga suas fotos na visor eletrônico EVF, do inglês "electronic viewfinder" de maior resolução fornece imagem mais nítida, produzindo visão de qualidade comparável à de um visor motor de foco move a lente para promover foco automático. Em câmeras profissionais, a presença de um motor de foco no corpo da câmera permite que se use vários tipos de lentes, incluindo lentes que não tenham seu próprio motor de foco. Para câmeras compactas, o motor de foco é geralmente giratórias podem ser úteis para enquadramentos uma cobertura de imagem de 100% você pode compor a imagem corretamente quando tira a foto. Com uma cobertura menor você poderá ter de cortar suas fotos depois para que fiquem maior o tamanho da tela, melhor a experiência do dos aspectos mais importantes de uma câmera é o tamanho de seu sensor. Um sensor maior irá capturar mais luz, o que resulta em melhor desempenho com pouca luz, faixa dinâmica e qualidade geral de mais pontos de foco, maior é a flexibilidade em selecionar em qual parte do cenário focar. Também dá ao sensor de imagem uma melhor probabilidade ao identificar a área correta do cenário para focar nos modos número de megapíxeis determina a resolução das imagens capturadas com a câmera principal. Um número maior indica que a câmera é capaz de capturar mais detalhes. No entanto, a quantidade de megapíxeis não é o único fator que determina a qualidade de uma maior sensibilidade à luz nível ISO, o sensor absorve mais luminosidade. O recurso pode ser utilizado para capturar imagens de objetos em movimento, usando o obturador em maior velocidade, ou para capturar imagens em ambientes de baixa luminosidade sem o uso de ISO expandido permite que você vá além do ISO base. Ele faz isso aprimorando digitalmente a saída da imagem. A imagem resultante terá menos qualidade do que quando permanecer dentro da faixa ISO base, mas pode ser útil em certas um estabilizador de imagem, o sensor de imagem e não a lente se move para compensar qualquer vibração da câmera. Isso significa que a imagem será estabilizada independentemente da lente disparo contínuo rápido é útil para capturar imagens de o rastreamento AF, uma vez escolhido o objeto e pressionado o obturador até a metade, se o objeto se mover, o foco automático irá segui-lo. Sem mais disparos fora de resolução máxima disponível para vídeos capturados com a câmera principal. Embora possa ser possível optar por outras velocidades de gravação, essas opções costumam gerar vídeos em menor sistema de focagem automática por detecção de fase é mais veloz que um sistema de focagem automática por detecção de contraste. Mesmo ao gravar cenas com muitos movimentos rápidos, os vídeos são nítidos e gravação os vídeos mantêm-se nítidos e entrada para microfone permite a conexão de microfones externos avançados ou esse conector padrão, você pode conectar a maioria dos fones de ouvido ao seu estéreo permitem a gravação de arquivos de áudio ou vídeo em sistema estéreo sem o uso de microfone função timelapse mostra uma longa passagem de tempo accelarada. Uma série de fotografias tiradas na mesma posição durante um longo período são ligadas para criar um pequeno vídeo. É uma óptima maneira de capturar coisas como o pôr-do-sol ou as nuvens a moverem-se no maior o bitrate de gravação de video melhor a qualidade do video, com mais e melhor detalhe e menos artefatos de mais microfones um dispositivo tiver, melhor a filtragem de ruídos de fundo e melhor a qualidade de gravação de som em CIPA é uma medida padrão e independente que determina quantas fotos a câmera pode tirar antes que a bateria bateria é removível e, se quebrar, pode ser trocada pelo usuárioA bateria pode ser recarregada e utilizada indicador lhe mostra quando o dispositivo está com pouca capacidade da bateria representa a quantidade de energia elétrica que uma bateria pode armazenar. Maior capacidade pode indicar maior vida útil da dispositivo pode ser conectado a redes é uma tecnologia sem fio que permite transferir dados com facilidade entre diferentes dispositivos, como smartphones, tablets e duas ranhuras para cartões de memória, permitindo que você guarde mais fotos sem precisar trocar cartões. Isto é particularmente útil em sessões de fotografia mais longas em que você precisa de mais câmera pode tirar uma série de fotografias, deslocando ligeiramente o sensor com cada uma delas. Estas podem então ser combinadas para criar uma imagem de resolução extremamente alta. É particularmente útil para coisas como fotografar obras de arquivo de imagem RAW contém dados minimamente processados a partir do sensor de imagem. Os ficheiros RAW são assim chamados porque ainda não foram processados e, portanto, ainda não estão prontos para ser impressos ou editados com um editor de imagens capaz de tirar fotos em formato lossless compressed raw. Isso tem todas as vantagens de fotografar em raw, ocupando muito menos espaço de armazenamento. O tamanho de arquivo menor também permite velocidades de leitura/gravação mais versões de Wi-Fi suportadas pelo tecnologia permite que o usuário utilize o próprio smartphone como controle remoto para o com entrada HDMI ou mini HDMI podem transferir vídeo e áudio em alta resolução para um D850 + Nikon AF-S Nikkor 24-120mm f/4G ED VRSony Alpha a7 III + Sony FE 24-105mm f/4 G OSSSony Alpha a9 + Sony FE 24-70mm GMCanon EOS 5D Mark IV + Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USMSony Alpha a7 III + Sony FE 28-70mm f/3__5-5__6 OSSSony Alpha 7R III + Sony FE 24-70mm f/4 ZA OSS Vario-Tessar T*Exibir tudo Update the article now includes an in-depth video tutorial with all the settings to configure as well as an analysis of the performance of the E-M1 mark III. You’ll find the video and a step by step guide with images at the bottom of this OM-D E-M1 II is an impressive camera in many ways, but there is one area that has always disappointed me, and that is the autofocus was a good step forward from its predecessor, the original E-M1, but not enough to stay ahead of the competition. In fact, many mirrorless models, including mid-level products such as the X-T20 and the a6300, offer better performance. This setback didn’t stop me from putting the E-M1 II at the top of my recommended cameras for wildlife list when I created the article in 2017. Its other virtues, in addition to its compact dimensions, make it a tantalising alternative to OM-D E-M1 IIOlympus has been targeting wildlife enthusiasts since the release of the 300mm Pro lens in early 2016, and this is probably the main reason I was disappointed with the AF performance of the E-M1 II. It’s not that it was bad, but it wasn’t great either and, at a time when mirrorless cameras were starting to prove that they could do well in that department, I would have hoped that the OM-D would lead the revolution rather than play has attempted to improve the performance via firmware before version but the real upgrade came with the E-M1X, a stronger and larger body designed for the most demanding photographers. For the new flagship the company re-designed the autofocus algorithm from the ground up and finally offered performance on par with the very best mirrorless camera in this class. It made me wonder if some of these new software updates could make it onto the smaller OM-D as flagship E-M1X next to the E-M1 IIFive months later, Olympus has released firmware for the E-M1 II which includes the same AF algorithm used by the flagship camera. Has the E-M1 II finally got the autofocus performance it deserves? To find out, I brought the camera with the 300mm Pro to my favourite testing ground, the Red Kite feeding station in E-M1 II with the 300mm f4 IS Pro lensTrivia Red Kites were almost extinct in the UK but a group of volunteers, later supported by the RSPB, made them a protected species and their numbers started to increase again in the eighties. The feeding station I regularly visit inaugerated the program in 1999. Today you can find many feeding stations across the you read our website on a regular basis, you’ll know that I love red kites I can sit and watch them flying around for hours. What’s more, they are the perfect subject to put a camera’s autofocus though its paces. They come to the feeding station in big numbers and I can photograph them in the sky or against busy backgrounds trees and hills. They sometimes fly close to you and of course their speed is impressive, as is their ability to suddenly change direction. They can still surprise me to this day even though I’ve been photographing them for almost four years.E-M1 II, 1/3200s, f/4, ISO 250I arrived at the location on a sunny hot June afternoon. During the summer months, there are fewer kites around 150 but the number can double in the winter. During the warmest time of the year, the feeding can last several hours whereas in the winter, the feast can be as short as half an how did the E-M1 II behave with the new firmware?Well for a start, I found the camera more reactive, as if it had a better understanding of what and where my subject was. I got better shots this time than the previous attempts I’ve made with the II, 1/3200s, f/4, ISO 400Another thing that surprised me is when the birds were flying momentarily behind branches. With the new firmware the camera didn’t loose track of the kite as much as it was happening II, 1/3200s, f/4, ISO 640When the bird flies close to you, the change in focus distance is greater and because the bird is moving fast, the camera has to react in a very short amount of time. With the previous firmware, shots like the one below would often be out of focus whereas this time I got sharp results on more than one II, 1/3200s, f/4, ISO 200 no cropWhen the bird appears small in the frame and flies against a busy background, the chance that the camera will mis-focus or confuse the subject with the background is greater. In the first image below, you can see that the OM-D has lost the bird and focused on the hill instead. The blurred kite silhouette is not easy to spot with the naked eye II, 1/2500, f/4, ISO 320Find the bird!Below you can see what happens with the camera the focus points are not on the bird anymore but on the background which has similar the second example, the camera managed to keep on top of the bird. Although you’ll still end up with images such as the one above, firmware has made the E-M1 II better at tracking smaller birds against such detailed landscapes. It is also more reactive in correcting focus and re-acquiring the II, 1/3200s, f/4, ISO 400In addition to the focus algorithm, Olympus has included a few settings inherited from the most important is the 5×5 Target for the focus points. This was the best setting on the E-M1X and I can confirm it improves the result on the E-M1 II as well. I find it more reliable than the All-Target mode even though you have to be extra sure to keep the bird in the central area of the frame. All Target 5×5 TargetThe All Target mode is not without its purpose. Following a bird and keeping it at the centre of your composition can be challenging at times. If the camera has more areas to work with, it can use the adjacent points to continue tracking the subject when it is not in the middle of the frame. However with more points the camera can mis-focus more is where we find another useful setting called C-AF Center Start. You can activate it for specific Target modes. Every time the camera focuses, it will start from the centre if you notice that the AF points are not on the subject anymore, you can briefly stop and then resume focusing which will force the camera to start from the central points. Of course this means you have to adjust your composition to bring the bird back to the centre as well. The AF points are not on the bird, so stop and resume focusing… …and the camera will start tracking with the central points observing the camera’s behaviour in the field, my work continues at home on the computer. I analyse all the shots and divide them in three categoriesout of focus the image is either completely mis-focused or the details on the bird are too blurryslightly out of focus the details on the bird are visible so the subject is recognisable, but the details are not as sharp as they could bein focus the bird and all the details are perfectly I do some math to calculate the percentage of sharp images. The result is a keeper rate that I can use to measure the performance against other cameras. If I’ve used different setting combinations, I calculate the score for each one of them so that I can see which parameters give the best give you an idea, here are some scores I got with other mirrorless camerasSony A9 80% 95% including slightly soft resultsE-M1X 74% / 91%Fuji X-T3 70% / 87%E-M1 II firmware 62% / 80%E-M1 II firmware or lower 50% / 75%As you can see, the keeper rate with firmware improves but doesn’t reach the same score as the E-M1X. One of the benefits of the new AF algorithm is that the camera analyses the images that are just being taken in addition to the live view. Because the flagship has two image processors instead of one, a possible explanation is that the E-M1X can read the data faster and therefore make corrections more find support for my theory when I analyse the images. The E-M1 II can still produce entirely out of focus sequences, something that is more rare on the II, 1/3200s, f/4, ISO 640An example of an entire sequence out of focusAnother problem with the mark II model is how the behaviour changes depending on the background. You would think that a clear blue sky would make it easier for the camera but I often got the opposite II, 1/3200s, f/4, ISO 200I believe that C-AF + Tracking is a better choice than C-AF alone when the animal is against the sky. However the kites can move quite quickly from a busy background to the clear sky in the same burst sequence, so it becomes difficult to change this kind of setting on the fly. You basically have to choose what type of scene to prioritise but, because other cameras don’t suffer from this problem, I consider it an imperfection of the E-M1 II’s AF all that said, firmware doesn’t produce any miracles but brings a welcome improvement to the AF performance. It doesn’t make the camera better than the E-M1X or the competition, but it does make it more reliable than before for birds in flight. Given the competitive price and compact size, the E-M1 II remains a valuable option after more than two years since its release. And that is a very good II, 1/3200s, f/4, ISO 1600E-M1 II, 1/2500s, f/4, ISO 500E-M1 II, 1/3200s, f/4, ISO 250Going a bit off topic, I want to add that the new firmware also improves the AF performance for video. The E-M1 II now uses phase detection at all times when recording movies, which improves the speed dramatically. You can check out the video below to see some adds a lot of other improvements. I didn’t have another camera sample to do a direct comparison with the previous version, but here is a list of all the most important changesyou can choose Drive Priority or Detail Priority for Low ISO values L100 has been added in the ISO settings the “OM-Log400″ profile is available in video mode Frame Rate Priority can be selected in Live View Boost Mode 2 you can choose between 3 and 15 shots when using Focus Stackingyou can playback images or change settings while the files are being written to the memory cardan Anti-Flicker mode is available stills only you can develop RAW files on Olympus Workspace by using the camera’s image processing conclude, you can find extra sample images and a guide at the end of the article on how to set up the E-M1 II and E-M1X for birds in you find an improvement after downloading firmware to your E-M1 II? Let us know your impressions in the comment section below!Ethics statement the camera was sent to us by Olympus UK to test the new firmware. We were not asked to write anything about the product, nor were we provided any other compensation of any kind. Within the article, there are affiliate links. If you buy something after clicking one of these links, we will receive a small commission. To know more about our ethics, you can visit our full disclosure page. Thank you!Reminder the links below are affiliate links. If you decided to buy something after clicking the link, we will receive a small price of the Olympus OM-D E-M1 II onAmazon Amazon UK B&H Photo eBaySecond-hand Olympus gear onMPB US MPB UKE-M1 II, 1/3200s, f/4, ISO 500E-M1 II, 1/3200s, f/4, ISO 1250E-M1 II, 1/3200s, f/4, ISO 800E-M1 II, 1/3200s, f/4, ISO 640E-M1 II, 1/3200s, f/4, ISO 1250E-M1 II, 1/3200s, f/4, ISO 1600E-M1 III Video Review and TutorialSetup 5 minutes Firmware update if needed 10 minutes Total Time 15 minutes Difficulty MediumIf you own an E-M1 II or E-M1X and want to venture into the wonderful world of birds in flight, here are my recommended settings to get the best performance out of your Olympus Olympus OM-D E-M1 II or E-M1X micro four thirds telephoto lens 300mm Pro, Leica DG 100-400mm or Leica DG 200mm with TC are my favourite computer with internet connection for firmware update Olympus Workspace software for firmware update USB cable for firmware updateInstructionsAutofocus settingsTurn on the camera, navigate to the Custom Menu A1 and set the AF Mode to C-AF continuous. Alternatively you can do this via the Super Control Panel OK button or the dedicated AF button on top near the On/Off Sequential Low or Silent Low for the continuous shooting speed Shooting Menu 1, Super Control Panel or dedicated button on top. If you select High, the camera will lock focus on the first frame and we don’t want that. The difference between Sequential Low and Silent Low is that the latter uses the electronic shutter, which raises the burst speed to 18fps the maximum with the normal mode is 10fps. Electronic shutter also means you can take pictures without any noise being emitted from the the All-Target or 5x5 Target mode for the AF area. 5x5 gave me the best results but keeping a bird at the centre of the frame can be difficult if you don’t have a lot of experience, so you might find the All-Target a better setting to start Custom Menu A1, choose mode3 for AF Scanner. This ensures that the camera keeps attempting to correct focus if the subject is not +2 High in C-AF Sensitivity. This makes the autofocus as reactive as you’re using the All-Target area see point 3, I’d advise you to enable C-AF Center Start for the All-Target mode. This will force the camera to start focusing with the central points, which is most likely where the bird will be when C-AF Center Priority for the 5x5 Target mode if you’re using it. You want the camera to use all the points available especially when the bird is a bit off Custom Menu C1, turn off the C-AF Release Priority. This way the camera will give more importance to focus acquisition rather than the shutter quality settingsChoose RAW format in the Shooting Menu 1 or via the Super Control Panel OK button.The shutter speed depends on the type of bird, but generally you want a fast value for birds in flight. On a sunny day, I use anything between 1/2500s and 1/4000s, on a cloudy day I can go down to about 1/1000s to keep the ISO down but if the bird is really fast, you want to raise that to at least 1/ the ISO sensitivity to Auto and choose a maximum value I leave it to 6400 but this can be changed depending on the amount of light availableIn the Super Control Panel, set the stabilisation mode to S-IS 2. This will correct only the vertical shake and will avoid motion blur useful settingsIn Custom Menu D2, enter Live View Boost then Manual Shooting and choose On1. This disables the exposure preview in the EVF and prioritise an optimal brightness which I found helpful when tracking the bird, especially if it flies in different light zones. Alternatively you can enable S-OVF in Custom Menu D2 again, choose High instead of Normal for Frame Rate. This increases the EVF frame rate to 120Hz for a more fluid view when tracking the bird with the Custom Settings A1, click on AEL/AFL, then C-AF and choose mode 4. This will assign focusing to the AEL/AFL button on the rear back button focus rather than half pressing the shutter button. This way you’ll use one button to focus and one to take the picture. I find this method more can use Pro Capture L instead of the normal Sequence Low. With Pro Capture, the camera pre-loads frames before the shutter is fully pressed, which is useful to capture unpredictable you use an E-M1 II, make sure to update the firmware to version which includes more settings and a better AF can update the firmware with the free Olympus Workspace software and by connecting the camera to your computer with the USB cable. Follow the instructions on the Olympus website. Skip to content From cables and software to kits custom designed to fit your tethered shooting needs, finding the right gear for your camera is essential. Use our Search by Camera tool to ensure you have the gear necessary to connect, collaborate, and create. Options for the Olympus OM-D E-M1 Mark IIWired Tethering Wireless Tethering Tethering Software Power Management Tethering EssentialsUSB-A Compatible Cable for the Olympus OM-D E-M1 Mark IIReplaces Olympus cable CB-USB11Learn the basics of tetheringCompatible Tethering Software for the Olympus OM-D E-M1 Mark IIThe battery door of the camera or battery grip must remain open. The camera will still operate correctly. ProTab Cable Ties 10pk $ Add to cart Contact Us × Send us a message and we'll be in touch with you within 1-2 business days. You can reach us at 1 888-854-65651 888-854-6565 Monday - Friday 9am to 5pm MST Customer Support This website stores cookies on your computer. These cookies are used to collect information about how you interact with our website and allow us to remember you. We use this information in order to improve and customize your browsing experience and for analytics and metrics about our visitors. Accept × Search for OM-D E-M1 Mark II Support Topics Download the OM-D E-M1 Mark II Manual Download the OM-D E-M1 Mark II Firmware Updates Contact Olympus Support Register My OM-D E-M1 Mark II Send My OM-D E-M1 Mark II in for Service Extend My Warranty

olympus om de m1 mark ii